Concordia

A 25 minute bus ride away from Santa Margherita is Portfolio. This is where our 25-year-old front desk man insisted we go for lunch. He gave us 3 recommendations. And as we got off the bus we noticed signs telling us that 2 of the recommendations were downhill and 1 was uphill from the bus stop. It wasn't quite 11:30 so we opted to check out the downhill restaurants first- there were more shops that way any way. We browsed and meandered down hill; now more steeply downhill; and even more steeply down. The river rock pavement was killing our feet through the thin soles of our shoes- until at last we came to a harbor. Thank goodness the water stopped our descent! At this point we begin looking for the 2 restaurants amongst the slew of souvenir shops. It's not looking good. It looks like some of the tourist traps on Bourbon Street. Really- I'm going to get front desk boy! One is on the corner of the square around the harbor- it's closed. Number 2 is across the square diagonally from the first restaurant - it's closed. Darn it!! I knew it was too good to be true!! That front desk boy- he's getting it when i get back!! We climb, climb climb back uphill stopping a number of times to catch our breath and stand in shade. It's getting hot now. We're sweating. We're tired and really thirsty at this point. We make it back to the bus stop- where is that other restaurant?!?! We see the sign- Concordia!! Alas!! Oh- wait a minute... I remember this name!! Yes yes- it was on my original list. Does front-desk-boy have a chance at redemption? Maybe.
It's hard to find the entrance but Gary, undaunted by the climb and very motivated by his churning, growling stomach at this point climbs ahead and is quite rewarded to find not only the front door open but the owners there waiting, chatting and smiling when he crests the entrance.
Oh my gosh- it's like a little oasis. Filled with flowers and cool greenery. Fifteen tables- max. And Mama!! She's at least 70 because the sons look at least 60!! Dear Mama rises out of her chair to make our lunch. We're so grateful that we're almost giddy before the food gets there. We order from the son who speaks only Italian. Yes we want water.- Flat. Only two choices of wine- blanco e rose. We'll take blanco- too hot for red. We begin to unwind.
The menu- why yes we'll look at a menu now. I know it says mussels in marinara - I'd prefer a white wine sauce but I know they have to be fresh so I'll take any kind of mussels! I look up on the wall beside the front door- a roughly varnished wood wall ornament with burnt carved letters announces the house specialties. Lasagna Pesto. I recognize both words and they sound great.
Wow!!! Oh my my my!! The son delivers the oval platter. Now I've eaten mussels all over the world, including Brussels. These were better, Sandy!! I'm not kidding!! Mama made a light white wine sauce with a little olive oil and fresh herbs!! (No marinara- she read my mind!!) They tasted like they were caught an hour before!!
And pesto lasagna- really!! The balance of the garlic and Parmesan was perfecto!! Mamma- you are AMAZING!! So simple and fresh!! Below you will find pictures of dessert including the lightest/creamiest flan I've ever put in my mouth!! But if you ever have the privilege/pleasure to visit Portfolio save yourself a lot of trouble. No need to even climb down the hill for tourist attractions, junk souvenir shops and over-crowded, over-priced restaurants. Just climb a block or so uphill from the bus stop for one of the most simple, incredible meals of your life!!
Front desk boy lived to see another day.